So there are a lot of churches here. Too many to possible visit in a lifetime Id say. So im going to highlight two of them that I have had some experiences with. First, St. Pauls within the Walls.
In France, I found a great international church in French that instantly became a favorite part of my weekly routine. Due to that great experience, I sought out a similar church here in Rome. St. Pauls Within the Walls is located near the Piazza Repubblica and holds international services on Sundays at 15h. I went for the first time last week and was amazed at all the nationalities present. The service is nondenominational, welcoming all outsiders regardless of core beliefs. The pastor speaks in English (and sounded quite American) and it is translated on the spot into Italian. It was rather powerful to be sitting in this BEAUTIFUL Church in Rome with people from all over the world, praising God and praying together. Quite the moment.
Another great experience occured in St. Peters Basilica. Officially known in Italian as the Basilica di San Pietro in Vaticano and is one of the most well known churches and is located within the Vatican City in Rome. It occupies a "unique position" as one of the holiest sites and as "the greatest of all churches of Christendom." In Catholic tradition, it is the burial site of its namesake Saint Peter, who was one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and, according to tradition, was the first Bishop of Antioch, and later first Bishop of Rome and therefore first in the line of the papal succession. (Wikipedia)
St Peters Cathedrale can hold up to 60,000 people is now the stomping grounds of Pope Benedict XVI. I left at 7am to attend a 930a mass and just barely got in (so i think we were at capacity). After an 1/2 hour wait outside, I approached the metal detectors and a man yelling -Advanced ticket holders only! TICKETS? I was not aware you need a ticket to go to church. Considering the pile of people milling about, I decided to chance it and see if I could get in. I avoided all eye contact, stuck in gob of people as they checked tickets and got in problem free! I did feel rather guilty sneaking in to THE church of the entire catholic world but hey I did not want to wait for nothing (and the museum in contrast to the guidebook was closed and therefore not free). So I was seated to the right of the alter, thus able to see the left profiles of Pope Benedict and his large entourage of ArchBishops during the 2.5 hours mass. The service, in a mix of languages as usual, was quite bizarre in my opinion. I felt as though I had wandered into a sporting event by accident. The Pope would say something then a group of the crowd would stand and cheer, then he'd switch languages and another group applauded, and on it went. The Bishops received honors of some sort and people would cheer for them as well. First of all, growing up WELS you do NOT clap in church. So that in itself was weird but honestly i half expected the Pope to start doing acrobatics or something to really earn recognition! = )
The entire crowd was offered communion in the end- and I thought oh my Lord this is going to take forEVER. But with that many archbishops and other men of the cloth around, it went pretty quickly because after all catholics only receive the bread and not the wine. After the Pope blessed the cup and bread (followed by bells respectively) the bishops took their positions and feed the hungry! It was nearing 12p at this point. So we all were herded out after a blessing for the entire group and giving 'Peace be with you' greetings to those around us. I took some great pictures on the way out. So I went to Catholic mass in the most famous church in the world. Its a shame I couldnt understand most of it.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Castel Sant'Angelo - A castle in the heart of a city!
I had the afternoon free and decided to instead just look at the outside, I should see the inner chambres of the imfamous castle. It was a great way to beat the heat too!
The splendid fortress of Castel Sant'Angelo was originally built as a mausoleum for the Emperor Hadrian in 139 CE. In the 10th Century CE it was transformed into a castle, then, 500 years later, into the elegant residence of Pope Alexander VI Borgia. Michelangelo designed the marvelous main court for Pope Leo X and many of the rooms inside are decorated with frescoes of great beauty. It is also been used to house prisoners, including the sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. The terrace offers a fine view of the river Tiber and opera lovers will know that this was where the final act of Giacomo Puccini's opera Tosca (1900) took place. The building is now a museum with a fine collection of suits of armor. There wasnt too much to look at in terms of museum quality collectibles but the feeling you had in the castle was well worth the entry fee. There was a lovely snack bar at the top with tables available under a trellis of plants. The view from the terrace was really beautiful - you could see most of the major monuments of Rome from there. I am already designing my country home..
The splendid fortress of Castel Sant'Angelo was originally built as a mausoleum for the Emperor Hadrian in 139 CE. In the 10th Century CE it was transformed into a castle, then, 500 years later, into the elegant residence of Pope Alexander VI Borgia. Michelangelo designed the marvelous main court for Pope Leo X and many of the rooms inside are decorated with frescoes of great beauty. It is also been used to house prisoners, including the sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. The terrace offers a fine view of the river Tiber and opera lovers will know that this was where the final act of Giacomo Puccini's opera Tosca (1900) took place. The building is now a museum with a fine collection of suits of armor. There wasnt too much to look at in terms of museum quality collectibles but the feeling you had in the castle was well worth the entry fee. There was a lovely snack bar at the top with tables available under a trellis of plants. The view from the terrace was really beautiful - you could see most of the major monuments of Rome from there. I am already designing my country home..
Thursday, June 26, 2008
un caffe, per favore
I am sure you all are aware that coffee is a large part of Italian culture. I bet they have just as many kinds of coffee drinks as pasta! I often go out for coffee with colleagues and realized just how ignorant I was to this part of their culture - such as having cappucino is a faux pas after lunch or dinner. So i did a bit of research and here are the new terms i learned:
- caffè (espresso)—a small cup of very strong coffee, i.e., espresso
- caffè Americano—American-style coffee, but stronger; weaker than espresso and served in a large cup
- caffè corretto—coffee "corrected" with a shot of grappa, cognac, or other spirit
- caffè doppio—double espresso
- caffè freddo—iced coffee
- caffè Hag—decaffeinated coffee
- caffè latte—hot milk mixed with coffee and served in a glass for breakfast
- caffè macchiato—espresso "stained" with a drop of steamed milk: small version of a cappuccino
- caffè marocchino—espresso with a dash of hot milk and cacao powder
- caffè stretto—espresso with less water; rocket fuel!
- cappuccino—espresso infused with steamed milk and drunk in the morning, but never after lunch or dinner
- granita di caffè con panna—frozen, iced beverage (similar to a slush, but ice shavings make it authentic) and topped with whipped cream
- caffe con crema-hot espresso with a dolop of your choice of gelato in the middle
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
An artsy side of Roma
A very warm evening in Roma, I decided to find the Piazza Navona home to the Nettuna Fountain and art lovers. I strolled down via Pietra by sketches and paintings of famous Roman momuments and stubbled upon a large open area full of people, artists easels, musicians, and carnies. Piazza Navona is known as the best place to buy local artwork and it showed. People were drawing charictures and architecture there on the spot- and the talent was visible everywhere you looked. Just north of the piazza there is a fun toy shop. It hosted dolls, cars, and wooden and metal toys that may be centuries old. I had fun perusing through the different kinds of toys as the owner had a watchful eye on my bag - schmuk. After that, I walked through the Piazza Fiamette where a friend of my cousin has a restaurant. I wanted to introduce myself but lo! I picked the only day of the week when it was closed = ( So I went to the Tevere river instead and crossed the Umberto I bridge that has an excellent view of St Pietro cathedral to the west. I followed the murky green water, passed several house boats and animals (even a beaver!) up to the Piazza de Popolo to find a great surprise.
Carvaggio was an Italian baroque painter, who was the most revolutionary artist of his time and the best exemplar of naturalistic painting in the early 17th century. Originally named Michelangelo Merisi, Caravaggio was born September 28, 1573, in the Lombardy hill town of Caravaggio, from which his professional name is derived. Orphaned at age 11, he was apprenticed to the painter Simone Peterzano of Milan for four years. At some time between 1588 and 1592, Caravaggio went to Rome and worked as an assistant to Giuseppe Cesari, also known as the Cavaliere d'Arpino, for whom he executed fruit and flower pieces (now lost). I was fortunate to see some of his famous work in a church off the Piazza de Popolo this week = ) Many people come to Rome just to see the sights where his work still hangs. They are beautiful but due to my lack of art knowledge and the fact the mass kicked me out of the church, i dont have much to say about them. Google Carvaggio and decide for yourself!
Carvaggio was an Italian baroque painter, who was the most revolutionary artist of his time and the best exemplar of naturalistic painting in the early 17th century. Originally named Michelangelo Merisi, Caravaggio was born September 28, 1573, in the Lombardy hill town of Caravaggio, from which his professional name is derived. Orphaned at age 11, he was apprenticed to the painter Simone Peterzano of Milan for four years. At some time between 1588 and 1592, Caravaggio went to Rome and worked as an assistant to Giuseppe Cesari, also known as the Cavaliere d'Arpino, for whom he executed fruit and flower pieces (now lost). I was fortunate to see some of his famous work in a church off the Piazza de Popolo this week = ) Many people come to Rome just to see the sights where his work still hangs. They are beautiful but due to my lack of art knowledge and the fact the mass kicked me out of the church, i dont have much to say about them. Google Carvaggio and decide for yourself!
Friday, June 20, 2008
Parks, Irish Pubs, and 'Hidden' Rome
When i was in Paris years ago, i was feeling a bit lonely so I went to the Disney Store on Les Champs d'Elysee and bought a hefalump to be my sleeping buddy. In Rome there is a Disney Store as well on via del Corso so i went to find what other character I could add to my collection. I fell for Roo the Kangaroo also from Winnie the Pooh (wow poetic huh?). Sadly though, it was 19 € , and i could not bring myself to spend over $25 on a little stuff toy. Ill just have to find real friends.
This week was a bit more busy and fun. I decided to go to a new part of Rome everyday after work. The most notable discovery this week was the 'central park' of the city called Villa Borghese. In this large heart shaped park, you can find museums, music auditoriums, and above all some peace and quiet away from the bussle of the city. It was very nice to wander near the lake and see the calmer side of the city for a few hours. Another evening, along with some coworkers, we took slices of pizza and ate on the Spanish steps to people watch. The European cup is coming to a close and Germany played Portugal. Several of my colleagues went to an Irish pub to watch the action and have a few pints! The bar was packed with German fans and due to the warm weather, the beer went down easily. Needless to say, I missed my last train and crashed at my friends for the night, dragging into work the next day wearing the same clothes and red eyes. Oh to be young. A different day, I scoped out the Auditorium here in Rome where most of the musical events happen. Next week for example Alanis Morrisette is going to playing there.
When the weekend hit so did the real heat. Saturday night my roommate arranged to meet some of her friends from college out for pizza. Our reservation got pushed back to 1030p to eat in the Parco Torlonya where Mussolini has a home. Our group of six, five Italians and me, ate our thin crust pizza in open air followed by limoncello (a strong lemon flavored liquor) bitters, and coffees. I think i finally made it back near 4am after a lovely glass of red wine (Morenilli) from Tuscany, champagne to celebrate a birthday, and a croissant with nutella. (mmm) Italians eat quite late compared to us Americans. I was famished by 8pm!
The 'Hidden Rome Tour' took up most of Sunday. A fellow intern and I, were guided by a local Roman - Francesco- who also works with the WHO. He drove us all over the city to the parts were tourists rarely see yet are very special indeed. Rome is known as the city of seven hills and was born between three of them. We visited four of them during this tour - all with impeccable views of the city below. A few of the hills show monuments for the founding fathers of the Rome Republic - Garibadi, Cavour, and Mazzini. Aventina boasts a huge monument of Garibaldi who was known as the arm of the city, Cavour the brain - never used force to implement his policies unlike Garibaldi, and Mazzini the heart. Also on the hills are the rich neighborhoods of Rome where you can find embassies, mansions, and beautiful churches and monasteries. We stopped at a monastery and peered through the keyhole to a beautiful garden of the Malta embassy. On Hill Gianicolo is where its thought that Peter was killed on an upside down cross.
We also toured a few secluded neighborhoods that date back hundreds of years including San Saba. You can immediately tell when you are in a modern or ancient area of the city. The architecture changes the materials and colors used. One of the neighborhoods were built like american cooperatives. I took several pictures to use for the design of my house one day = ). Near Piazza Vittorio we stopped for lunch. This area is one of most ethincally diverse neighborhoods of Rome where Indian, Chinese, and African immigrants come to hang their hats. We ate at an incredible Indian food restaurant that reminded me of being back home. Later in the day, Francesco has one more big surprise for us. He drove to the SE corner of the city to the Parco Dellappia Antica where you can find an original foot path to the city that goes on for miles. The great part of this park is the ancient aqueducts ! I got some amazing shots and heard interesting stories about illegals using the aqueducts as one wall of their huts to survive. Prostitution was also rampant in that part of time back in the day. Francesco grew up nearby so showed us little nooks and crannies I bet few people know about. After five hours in 84 degree heat, we parted ways. What an incredible experience- I am so lucky to have a local roman show me around!
This week was a bit more busy and fun. I decided to go to a new part of Rome everyday after work. The most notable discovery this week was the 'central park' of the city called Villa Borghese. In this large heart shaped park, you can find museums, music auditoriums, and above all some peace and quiet away from the bussle of the city. It was very nice to wander near the lake and see the calmer side of the city for a few hours. Another evening, along with some coworkers, we took slices of pizza and ate on the Spanish steps to people watch. The European cup is coming to a close and Germany played Portugal. Several of my colleagues went to an Irish pub to watch the action and have a few pints! The bar was packed with German fans and due to the warm weather, the beer went down easily. Needless to say, I missed my last train and crashed at my friends for the night, dragging into work the next day wearing the same clothes and red eyes. Oh to be young. A different day, I scoped out the Auditorium here in Rome where most of the musical events happen. Next week for example Alanis Morrisette is going to playing there.
When the weekend hit so did the real heat. Saturday night my roommate arranged to meet some of her friends from college out for pizza. Our reservation got pushed back to 1030p to eat in the Parco Torlonya where Mussolini has a home. Our group of six, five Italians and me, ate our thin crust pizza in open air followed by limoncello (a strong lemon flavored liquor) bitters, and coffees. I think i finally made it back near 4am after a lovely glass of red wine (Morenilli) from Tuscany, champagne to celebrate a birthday, and a croissant with nutella. (mmm) Italians eat quite late compared to us Americans. I was famished by 8pm!
The 'Hidden Rome Tour' took up most of Sunday. A fellow intern and I, were guided by a local Roman - Francesco- who also works with the WHO. He drove us all over the city to the parts were tourists rarely see yet are very special indeed. Rome is known as the city of seven hills and was born between three of them. We visited four of them during this tour - all with impeccable views of the city below. A few of the hills show monuments for the founding fathers of the Rome Republic - Garibadi, Cavour, and Mazzini. Aventina boasts a huge monument of Garibaldi who was known as the arm of the city, Cavour the brain - never used force to implement his policies unlike Garibaldi, and Mazzini the heart. Also on the hills are the rich neighborhoods of Rome where you can find embassies, mansions, and beautiful churches and monasteries. We stopped at a monastery and peered through the keyhole to a beautiful garden of the Malta embassy. On Hill Gianicolo is where its thought that Peter was killed on an upside down cross.
We also toured a few secluded neighborhoods that date back hundreds of years including San Saba. You can immediately tell when you are in a modern or ancient area of the city. The architecture changes the materials and colors used. One of the neighborhoods were built like american cooperatives. I took several pictures to use for the design of my house one day = ). Near Piazza Vittorio we stopped for lunch. This area is one of most ethincally diverse neighborhoods of Rome where Indian, Chinese, and African immigrants come to hang their hats. We ate at an incredible Indian food restaurant that reminded me of being back home. Later in the day, Francesco has one more big surprise for us. He drove to the SE corner of the city to the Parco Dellappia Antica where you can find an original foot path to the city that goes on for miles. The great part of this park is the ancient aqueducts ! I got some amazing shots and heard interesting stories about illegals using the aqueducts as one wall of their huts to survive. Prostitution was also rampant in that part of time back in the day. Francesco grew up nearby so showed us little nooks and crannies I bet few people know about. After five hours in 84 degree heat, we parted ways. What an incredible experience- I am so lucky to have a local roman show me around!
Monday, June 16, 2008
The Adriatic Sea
No doubt about it - i must live near the ocean! I am feeling particularly refreshed after this weekend. As a result of my down and homesick week, I decided to get a change of scenery and visit an old friend in Pescara, Italy. As luck would have it, Pescara is located on the eastern coast of Italy on the Adriatic Sea about 2.5 hours from Rome by bus. I left early Saturday morning and was welcomed by my Italian friend Licia, her family, and her boyfriend Paolo. Even though it was pouring, we found a way to visit the city, the nearby village of Ortuno, and the beaches and ports. The sea was brillant color blue and the coasts have lovely cliffs that reminded me of Senegal. People from all over Europe flock to Pecsaras beaches for holidays. The water so warm-like bath water! I found a silver cross necklace on the beach that day- i think my luck is changing... In the evening, they took me to a restaurant for local food. We had beef kebabs, fries, and beer - i felt right at home! After dinner we strolled along the boardwalk that follows the coasts eating ice cream and discussing all good things Italian and American.
The following day was beautiful so we headed down to the sand right after breakfast. We stopped to see all the yachts in the tourist harbor and strolled in the glorious sun. I was really happy to have spent a lovely weekend seaside with a now good friend. I spent time with her italian family and that is always a great experience to see how the locals live. I didnt want to come back to Rome at the weekends conclusion, but i did.
The following day was beautiful so we headed down to the sand right after breakfast. We stopped to see all the yachts in the tourist harbor and strolled in the glorious sun. I was really happy to have spent a lovely weekend seaside with a now good friend. I spent time with her italian family and that is always a great experience to see how the locals live. I didnt want to come back to Rome at the weekends conclusion, but i did.
Friday, June 13, 2008
Piramide, FAO, and San Gio - Who?
So work was slow one day and i wanted to check out the Food and Agriculture Organization (cuz i might work for them one day) to visit their English library. The structure isnt so interesting and sadly I arrived when the library was not open to the public! I thought I didnt come all that way for nothing, so i snuck in past the guard and saw i must say a pathetic library compared to the ones at UW-Wisconsin. After a quick stroll through the building, I realized i had a bit of time so decided to see why one of the metro stops was called piramide. Was there in fact a pyramid? YES THERE WAS! The pyramid was included in the Aurelian Walls, and is close to Porta San Paolo. The pyramid is a funerary monument built about 12 BC as a tomb for Caius Cestius, a member of one of the four great religious corporations at Rome and is made out of white marble. The Roman Empire had conquered Egypt a few years before, in 30 BC, and the ancient culture of the new province became fashionable for a while; at any rate the tomb is unique among ancient Roman monuments. It was a nice surprise after a tough week.
Earlier this week, i had another nice surprise. I was wandering in a new part of the city and came across a beautiful church! Later i looked it up and discovered it was the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano - the oldest and ranks first among the four patriarchal churches of Rome; it is the head of all churches throughout Rome and the world. Originally the palace of Constantine, it was later adapted to serve as the church of the Pope. Not a bad discovery i must say! http://rome.arounder.com/san_giovanni_in_laterano/index.html
Earlier this week, i had another nice surprise. I was wandering in a new part of the city and came across a beautiful church! Later i looked it up and discovered it was the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano - the oldest and ranks first among the four patriarchal churches of Rome; it is the head of all churches throughout Rome and the world. Originally the palace of Constantine, it was later adapted to serve as the church of the Pope. Not a bad discovery i must say! http://rome.arounder.com/san_giovanni_in_laterano/index.html
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